i got some questions about the gear you guys use

Clothes, tools, technology, nutrition, training, techniques, etc.
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friendowl
Posts: 137
Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2007 9:23 am

Post by friendowl »

this is really the first time i have wanted to
be out and about in the snow and ice.

what brand of crampons and bott do you use?

are you happy with your stuff?

im about to buy some new toys

grivel air tech lights [crampons]

la sportiva trango sevo gtx [boots]

black diamond raven pro [axe]

this is quite an expensive hobby
i'll be glad once i got most of what i need
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Taco
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:35 pm

Post by Taco »

Howdy!

I would not purchase the Air Tech Lights. They are aluminium. They are fine for things such as ski mountaineering, or other forms of transportation in which you will not be stepping on things harder than soft ice and compact snow. In the San Gabriels, things get mixed really fast, so you'll really really do better with steel crampons, as you will often step on rocks.

That said, I've never broken a crampon tip, nor have I used aluminium crampons. My opinion of aluminium in a high-stress environment (under your foot, stepping on all sorts of stuff) is low, after having seen aluminium objects in the military environment break, where I believe steel would have been a much smarter choice.

I have a set of Grivel G12 (steel, standard) crampons with "New-matic" binding, which has the bail up front, and the clippy-dealy at the rear that clamps down on the rear of your boot (major brainfart here), will add terminology when my brainfart has passed. :lol: This system is very strong and very positively attached to the boot, which is VERY helpful when you do any mixed or harder ice. At the least, this inspires confidence in the equipment, as I know many folks have done more with less.

G12: http://www.grivelnorthamerica.com/produ ... id=5&id=47
Image
This photo shows the fancier new-matic binding system, my preferance.

I have the squishy (yet another fancy technical term) anti-bott plates on my Grivel G12's, the ones they came with. I removed the Accordion, which is an ant-ibott for the center bar. I've not had an issue that made me wish to replace these. They stop my crampons from compacting down enough to be stored in the crampon bag integral to my pack.

I've had several pairs of Black Diamond crampons, and my oldest are standard run-of-the-mill Contact Strap models, as basic as BD makes them. They're great for most stuff, but make me feel uneasy if I'm on technical terrain, if you intend to do any of that. Aside from that, they're by far more versatile than any other attachment system, and I've put them on several pairs of boots, from Army issue boots to trail runners. If you o not intend to climb vertical ice or mixed routes, I'd buy these, or their Grivel equivelant (G10 with Classic binding).

G10's: http://www.grivelnorthamerica.com/produ ... id=5&id=43
Image
Those are the classic bindings. They fit on nearly all forms of footwear that you intend to wear in the mountains in winter. This is, in my opinion, the best system for general mountaineering, if you only wish to own one set of crampons.

Contact Strap: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/ge ... _strap.php
Image

The Trango's are fantastic. I have the Scarpa equivelants (Charmoz), and they're great. Several of my friends have, and love their Trangos. Since you are getting crampons, you can either buy the Grivel's that have the fancy binding, or the standard straps.

I don't know much about the Raven Pro. I have had the standard Raven for a few years, and I cannot think of anything to improve on it. It's just the way a general mountaineering piolet (axe) should be, in my opinion. The only one I've tried that I like more is the REI-standard Grivel Brenva axe, not that there is anything wrong with the Ravens at all. The Grivel has a nicer spike, and the head is more comfortable for folks with lage hands to hold for long periods of time.

And yes, I'm happy with my stuff. 8)

Feel free to ask questions. Don't be a stranger!
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friendowl
Posts: 137
Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2007 9:23 am

Post by friendowl »

thanks taco
i'll take your advice on the crampons
after i get all my gear
i'm going to hit you up for some lessons
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Taco
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:35 pm

Post by Taco »

Not a problem! 8)

BTW, make sure you check your box of crampons when you buy it! My buddy ended up with two right crampons... not cool. Whenever I go to REI, and I'm looking at different gear or maybe new crampons or something, I see Grivel crampon boxes with a random Black Diamond crampon inside, and a Grivel one that doesn't match the box. :shock:

Have a good one, and happy shopping.
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luciano136
Posts: 35
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2007 11:52 am

Post by luciano136 »

+1 on 'no aluminum'

Once you get on hard ice, you will be thanking God you went with steel...
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Rob
Posts: 158
Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 9:26 pm

Post by Rob »

friendowl wrote:this is quite an expensive hobby
Friendowl, like you, I too am shopping to equip myself for my first winter season of hiking. As I shop I keep running cost-benefit analyses in my head. I hesitated on buying a marked-down pair of snowshoes and lost a great deal. My wife unselfishly sacrificed a Tupperware container for me to store my crampons in inside my daypack.

Nevertheless, what hobby is cheaper than hiking?
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Taco
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Post by Taco »

Hiking is cheap! Until you get tired of level ground, and look up higher. Then that gets old, so you go when it's colder. Then that gets old, and you try to go up steep stuff with cold stuff underfoot as well. Then that gets old, and you want harsh weather, "full conditions", and now you gotta buy all these fancy garments. Then that gets old, and you take up alcoholism, have a stroke, and die. :twisted:

Or something like that.
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HikeUp
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 9:21 pm

Post by HikeUp »

TacoDelRio wrote:Then that gets old, and you take up alcoholism, have a stroke, and die.
Preferably 5 minutes before your liver fails.
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Hikin_Jim
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 9:04 pm

Post by Hikin_Jim »

TacoDelRio wrote:Then that gets old, and you take up alcoholism, have a stroke, and die
Optimist. Don't hold back just 'cause he's a newbie.
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Taco
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:35 pm

Post by Taco »

No worries. I inherited the hollow leg from the German/Slavic side of ze family. No holding back here!

j/k...
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Maxwell's Demon
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Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:26 pm

Post by Maxwell's Demon »

I bought the Raven Pro but wished I had bought the Raven because when there's boulders and trees, it's inevitable that the shaft will get scratched unless you want to be extra careful and keep putting it away and pulling it out. The Raven also has a longer head, which would help better when it's slushy. It is heavier than the Raven pro, however. If there's no chance of rocks, the Camp Corsica is really light! Like a feather!

The steel Kahtoolas are real 10-point crampons, used by at least one of the Sherpas who claim Everest records. I've found them to be more stable than Black Diamond crampons and tons lighter.
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