Piute - Duck Pass

[JeffH]

My Sierra sojourn this year....
June 19-23, 2021
I planned for six days and nearly 70 miles on this sojourn, entering the backcountry via Piute Pass and exiting over Duck Pass into Mammoth Lakes. As can happen in the wilderness, plans change and I walked out a day earlier and a few miles shorter. This is the longest backpacking trip I've ever taken as I covered 65 trail miles over the five days.
Day 1 - I drove to Bishop from my usual Alabama Hills sleeping area, arriving about 10 minutes before the shuttle transport up to North Lake Road. Surprisingly, one guy on the bus was a passenger the last time I used this transport a couple years ago, so we had some time to catch up on stories. The shuttle stops at the road to North Lake, so it was a couple miles walking on pavement. I finally reached the Piute Pass trail and shortly afterward got to say thanks again to John Muir as I moved up the familiar canyon. I intended to stay at Lower Desolation Lake, but in looking at the terrain I moved on another couple of miles to a more appropriate spot. Tangling with mosquitos was not much fun so I made it an early night into the tent.
9.9 miles, +2954 / -935 feet.

Day 2 - Since I was in the shade I got to sleep in for a while, having some breakfast and getting on the trail by 7am. Plenty more of the bloodsucking creatures were out, so I put on my headnet, and just kept moving before they could swarm. This was a long downhill day, as Piute Canyon descends for another 10 miles and a few thousand feet where it meets the John Muir Trail at the San Joaquin River. Somewhere in this section I lost my sunglasses, probably when donning the net... A nice extended snack break near Piute Creek helps me cool off and I managed to eat a little bit too. In the afternoon I had a long uphill and since I was pretty wiped out I looked for any flat spot to sleep. I found something close next to a giant tree, using my backpack under my head and rolled-up tent under the legs to make things mostly level.
13.7 miles, -3971 / +2406 feet.

Day 3 - I got started early, walking a half hour to Senger Creek where I took a long break for breakfast and also downed a couple bottles of water. Somewhere up above that spot I wandered off trail to get a couple pictures to celebrate International Hike Naked Day, and again trudged up and up. Another short break at the Sallie Keyes lakes gave me the energy to tackle Selden Pass, and the view of Marie Lake was so outstanding that I just sat there for about 45 minutes enjoying the experience. Finally on trail again, I forded Bear Creek three times, climbed a few more hours and collapsed at a good campsite late in the afternoon. A few other hikers joined me there and we had some nice trail chat before another early night in the tents.
12.7 miles, +2524 / - 2648 feet.

Day 4 - The local birds were all up around 0430, meaning everyone in the campsite got early starts today. I had another chance to take the trail to Vermilion Valley Resort, but I had decided a couple days earlier that I didn't want to make the 11-mile climb out of there. Today I got to descend through some nice forest area and took a short breakfast break near McGee Creek. This trail went steeply uphill most of the way to Silver Pass, where the wind was blowing hard enough to make me decide to keep going instead of my planned camp at Silver Pass Lake. After crossing the pass I wound my way through a number of alpine lakes before stopping near Squaw Lake. There I had to wait a couple hours before setting up the tent because the wind was still blowing strong. I finally got things set up and relaxed to watch the sunset and have some dinner before retiring to another couple chapters in the book "As You Wish".
12.7 miles, +4055 / -3025 feet.

Day 5 - A long morning descent led to a quick food break before all the mosquitos got notification of my whereabouts, and I hit the trail once again. Leaving that area is a long hot climb out of Tully Hole, fortunately I met up with another hiker and we walked slow enough to have a conversation, mostly about the meaning of life. On reaching Lake Virginia, we both felt like a break was in order so I turned it into lunchtime by snacking on a tortilla covered with Nutella and Snickers, which is officially my favorite trail food. From there we headed up and down to Purple Lake, and up and down once again to my turnoff for Duck Pass. We bid our farewells, and I started on what I thought would be all downhill, which was completely wrong. I planned to stay at Duck Lake, but the wind was blowing whitecaps across the lake and I figured I would just keep going until finding a suitable location for camping. This turned into a very long walk as I just kept going until reaching Coldwater Campground. While sitting there looking for transport options, another pair of hikers asked if I wanted a ride into town, which I gladly accepted. I happily stopped at the Motel 6, where I was able to cap off my adventure with a good shower and a large meal.
15.8 miles, +3371 / -4732 feet.

Entire trip: Five days, 65 miles, +14,086 / -14,004 feet
CalTopo page if anyone wants to see this: https://caltopo.com/m/6SQQ

[JeffH]

Day 1 pics:

Morning view of Mt Whitney from the Alabama Hills.

Parking lot in Bishop near the Police station and shuttle stop. Last-minute gathering of all the hiking goods.

Part pavement, part dirt road walk up to North Lake. A couple vehicles passed me on the way up but no one offered a ride.

Last view of civilization for a while.

North Lake. Seems more like a pond.

Hello and thanks John.

Stairclimbing - every day up here.

A little bit of Loch Leven, Piute Pass still high above.

Looking back down the trail as I neared the pass.

Lower Desolation Lake. I couldn't see any good flat spots for camping and I didn't want to work my way through all those rocks looking for one.

[JeffH]

Day 2 pics:

Morning view from my campsite.

Trekking down the canyon this morning.

Near the creek is nice, this was part of my five miles of misery where the mosquitos were particularly voracious.

This guy didn't escape the bugs.

Water refill time. Right around here I realized my sunglasses were gone.

Just a few miles to go before reaching the JMT, eventually this trail goes back down to the creek.

Heading north on the JMT, it was very hot in the lower canyons - this spot around 8000 ft.

Interesting PCT marker at the junction to Muir Trail Ranch.

Cowboy camping. Still had to wear the headnet all night.

[JeffH]

Day 3 pics:

Morning view as I walked up toward Senger Creek.

Senger Creek, excellent break spot. I also saw my only deer of the trip.

Lower Sallie Keyes Lake. There was a Bald Eagle parked on a rock across the way.

Heart Lake as I kept climbing up toward Selden Pass.

I was hoping this was the pass, sadly it was not true.

Marie Lake from Selden Pass. Pictures aren't enough here - a PCT hiker following me was moved to tears at this sight.

Hanging out.

Crossing Bear Creek. I watched a guy downstream looking for a rock crossing, it looked like he was playing Frogger.

[JeffH]

Day 4 pics:

Another morning view.

Random stream crossing.

Had to sit here for a while just to cool off on the long long trek up to Silver Pass.

I thought Silver Pass was just ahead, wrong again as it was another three hours.

Another cooling off break in the afternoon, I was moving pretty slow by this part of the hike.

Silver Pass in sight.

Silver Pass Lake, too windy for me to think about a campsite.

Chief Lake.

Watching the sunset over Squaw Lake.

[JeffH]

Day 5 pics:

A very windy night, my tent finally blew over in the morning while I was cooking up hot chocolate.

This morning I get to walk down this canyon before yet another uphill trek.

Down in Tully Hole, last shade for a while.

These switchbacks were hot in the morning sun. Tully Hole below.

Lunch break at Lake Virginia.

Purple Lake.

Random granite view after climbing away from Purple Lake.

Can't tell from here but it was extremely windy at Duck Lake.

View toward Lake Mary and Mammoth from Duck Pass.

[Sean]

Thanks for the report and congrats on your epic trek. It took me awhile but I finally figured out how to stop losing my sunglasses on hikes. I don't wear them anymore.

I once backpacked around the Meysan Lake area with a small group, and after climbing Mt. Mallory one of the guys stripped down and went skinny dipping in Grass Lake. I don't think it was Hike Naked day, he just did it normally. I haven't seen anyone actually hike naked, but I've seen some barefoot hikers negotiating rough, rocky terrain. I wonder how often they slice their feet. Seems very limiting and potentially dangerous. I at least wear hiking sandals.

[Tom Kenney]

Thanks for sharing this! I really miss the high country.

I guess weather was at issue, but you should've done the extra few steps to Blaney Hot Sprs. The public spring (not the private resort ranch) is across-river from the trail, sits in a lovely meadow with grass ringing the 4m-wide pool, waist-deep, sandy bottom, perfect bath temperature. It's the most idyllic natural hot spring I've visited in the Sierra.

Sally Keyes Lakes is a pretty place. More than a quarter century since I was there...

[Girl Hiker]

Wow! I enjoyed reading your trip report.

Your pics are beautiful. I'm pretty sure you could have hiked naked on Hike Naked day since you were all alone out there in the wilderness. The bears and deer might have been amused lol.

I wish that I was brave enough to take a long trek like that all alone backpacking.

Nice find on the marker.

I just came back from spending four days in the Sierras. It amazes me how beautiful those alpine lakes are in the middle of the forest.

By the way, I didn't know that there was a shuttle from Alabama hills. Good to know.

[davidwiese]

Great trip and report. Thanks!

[JeffH]

I wish that I was brave enough to take a long trek like that all alone backpacking.

By the way, I didn't know that there was a shuttle from Alabama hills. Good to know.

I go out solo but on the JMT highway I am never alone. The sheer number of permits per day guarantee that I will see people at least every hour.

The shuttle runs 2x per day from Bishop to South Lake and Lake Sabrina, I had the driver stop at North Lake road to drop me off. No cheap shuttle in Lone Pine, it’s only Paul or Kurt that do it commercially.

[JeffH]

Thanks for the report and congrats on your epic trek. It took me awhile but I finally figured out how to stop losing my sunglasses on hikes. I don't wear them anymore.

...... I've seen some barefoot hikers negotiating rough, rocky terrain. I wonder how often they slice their feet. Seems very limiting and potentially dangerous. I at least wear hiking sandals.

Wearing the head net every day acted as a nice extra shield for my eyes - it's bright up there with the light colored rock.

I met a guy on Whitney once by the moniker of Barefoot Ted, he hiked everywhere with no shoes. Said it made him more aware of the trail or some granola idea like that.

[JeffH]

Thanks for sharing this! I really miss the high country.

I guess weather was at issue, but you should've done the extra few steps to Blaney Hot Sprs. The public spring (not the private resort ranch) is across-river from the trail, sits in a lovely meadow with grass ringing the 4m-wide pool, waist-deep, sandy bottom, perfect bath temperature. It's the most idyllic natural hot spring I've visited in the Sierra.

Sally Keyes Lakes is a pretty place. More than a quarter century since I was there...

I like this picture!!

Blayney Hot Springs is near VVR and I chose not to go there. It would have meant about 25 miles to cover in the last 1.5 days with the first 11 miles uphill to rejoin the JMT. It's still on my mental list of things to do - a zero day there would make it easy to visit the hot springs.

[Uncle Rico]

Wow, nice trip Jeff. The N. Fork Bishop Creek drainage is beautiful. But those stairs are a killer.

How were the water levels in creeks/lakes? Looks decent from your pics.

[JeffH]

How were the water levels in creeks/lakes? Looks decent from your pics.

The mapped places all had water. It's still early, although I talked to some folks in town who said this year is about two months ahead of schedule - meaning my trip would normally be the levels at end of August. The seasonal streams and springs noted in the Guthook app were mostly dry. One night at a campsite I gave a guy half of my water bottle because he hadn't filled up at the creek a mile back. We were staying at a site that was supposed to have water - we could see where it should be but it had zero flow.

[tekewin]

Great backpacking trip! The photos are great.

I idea of backpacking is still foreign to me, but I can see the payoff in your trip with big miles and so much area you got to visit. Sleeping with mosquitos sounds pretty awful. Do you think the mosquitos are a feature of the area or just this time of year?

[JeffH]

Great backpacking trip! The photos are great.

I idea of backpacking is still foreign to me, but I can see the payoff in your trip with big miles and so much area you got to visit. Sleeping with mosquitos sounds pretty awful. Do you think the mosquitos are a feature of the area or just this time of year?

Mosquitos are definitely a feature (not a bug).... Usually June would be colder and have more snow but this year is different. Also the skeeters now completely disregard the rules about temperature, elevation and wind. It can be a challenge to jump into the tent and not bring too many inside. I've had nights where I had to murder a dozen of them.